Laurence and Organic Active Ingredients in Cosmetics

Let Me Introduce Myself…

photo interview de Laurence, Manager de l’équipe R&D Soins Cosmétiques chez LÉA NATURE

My name is Laurence Rabaud and I am the manager of the Cosmetic Care R&D team at LÉA NATURE.  When I finished my studies as a biochemist, I worked for 9 years in the conventional cosmetic formulation industry before joining LÉA NATURE, a career move that added new meaning to my job.


My Life As a Researcher

Every day, I manage a team of 8 people.  We develop cosmetic products for the Group, working at every step of the process from formulation all the way to production.
My main duties include:

  • developing research and innovation;
  • guaranteeing the development of finished products.

Creating organic formulas is less easy than in the conventional cosmetics industry because our raw materials base is smaller.
That’s where innovation and cleverness come into play:  you need to know the raw materials, dare to make certain combinations, use the materials differently than what they are originally intended for, remain on the look-out, and be curious!
Creating your own product is great, but managing a team to implement a great project is even better!
That boosts creativity and creates stronger bonds, it is a truly enriching experience.

In the end, the best reward is obtaining high consumer satisfaction, and I always feel proud when I see our products on display, and hope they will prove to be satisfactory, providing pleasure, comfort, high performance, and well-being for all!


What is the best part of this job?

Creating a product.  That all starts with “falling in love” with a specific raw material: its consistency, the technical miracles it produces, the result, the way it works.
That is when you can project yourself into the finished product, when the challenge becomes clear, your senses and brain are stimulated, you start working on the material!
That is always such an exciting moment, you just want to drop everything else and work on it all the time.


The Various Steps in Developing a Cosmetic Formula

photo actif cosmétiqueThe Marketing Department gives us a vision of the new product we are seeking:  the consistency, smell, and performance we are aiming for, as well as the consumers we are targeting.  Those are the specifications.

Once the theoretical formula is established, we need to start working on the material itself, on the ingredient combination and how that affects consistency.
We try and try again to reach our objectives, while keeping costs under control and sticking to the deadlines!

The product stability study allows us to determine that all of the product qualities (smell, color, aspect) remain the same during the entire life of the product.
That is why we produce stability tests over a specific period of time, with respect to hot and cold temperatures, and daylight, which all contribute to accelerated deterioration of the product.
We also ensure that the product is stable over time from a microbiological point of view, and that it will not be contaminated during the industrialization process or when used.

After that, we move on to the industrialization process, during which we carry out a pilot run with the Production Department, to ensure that our operational procedure can actually be implemented on a bigger scale.

The product is then sent to be evaluated by volunteers who try it under real-life conditions to assess how it is tolerated, determine its characteristics and rate performance.
If the product gets good reviews, it is ready to go into production for sale.  If not, we need to continue improving it.


Development of the Eau Thermale Jonzac® Product Line

This brand was born when Charles KLOBOUKOFF met Claude BELOT, Deputy Mayor of Jonzac.
Both men wanted to make the incredible virtues of Jonzac thermal spring water available to the general public while privileging ecological values and local development.
This idea led to the creation of the very first line of organic, hypoallergenic cosmetics made with Jonzac thermal spring water.

This was not an easy process, one of the first challenges being how to stabilize the formulas containing this thermal spring water, which is extremely rich in minerals.

Another challenge was identifying raw materials that were highly hypoallergenic, and that had an excellent track record as far as tolerance was concerned.
We were also able to develop an effective, hypoallergenic, high-tolerance preservative.
All of this research was eventually patented, ensuring full recognition of this particularly innovative development process.

Our Eau Thermale Jonzac® line successfully combines organic skincare and dermo-cosmetic treatment.


What is my biggest achievement?

The development of our Eau Thermale Jonzac® beauty products.


Favorite Beauty Product

The Rehydrate light cream by Eau thermale Jonzac®.
I also like the Nutritive hand cream from the same line, as well as our  Lift’Argan® Divinissime Everlasting cream.